Where as last seasons impetus was the hippy/stoner/drop-outs of the 60’s and 70’s, swathed in tie-dye and doing LSD on a summer road-trip, this season London’s newest,coolest designer, J.W. Anderson,27, showed a completely different inspiration (keeping the youthful insurgence intact, as with every collection) Anderson showed us alt 90’s prep schoolboys in dark (and sometimes Liberty printed) pretenses.
Seems as if Anderson was riffing on teenage punks vs. conformity. Angsty rich kids headed for private school, putting there own spin on the uniform.
Angora sweaters tied around the waist and his trademark boots (this time with tufts of fur) with deconstructed sportscoats and pants that are just a bit short sat beautifully next to odd-ball pieces like the quilted arthropod-like orange top, the jacquard details and the almost cleric full-length pleated skirts. At its darker and more straight-forward moments "The Craft" and "Spring Awakening" came to mind, suggesting the boys probably stayed up late one night toying with a Ouija board and performing rituals out of books they checked out from the library.....
The whole thing kinda reminded me of this song.
Anderson, a former actor, knows how to bring a certain character element to each season to make it not only cohesive but convincing in a way that is seductive, a quality owned by such phenomenal talents as Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada, a quality that is going to take him straight to the top of this industry.
(also you guys, I'm gonna be reviewing a few NYFW shows over at Fiasco+, so keep an eye out!!!!!:):)so excited for NYFW to be here!!)