Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Law of Relativity???

Yes, I know that discussing/reviewing the shows of SS11 is not only passe but it also borders on social retardation. I mean, how many times are people gonna wanna hear about the "Margiela influence" at Raf or drool at the espadrille/sneaker/brogues at Prada or fanboy over the vintage video game tunes played at Jil???(personally I could do all of those forever and ever.....)and with Paris Fashion Week coming up I figured this might be my last time to talk about them(this will only be a review of my top 6+Prada is coming later), so here. we.  GO!!

I always find myself in love with what Christopher Bailey does at Burberry.
I'm drawn to his ways of making the old seem new.
And the way he makes everything seem polished to a tee.
I love the fact that he practically reinvents the trenchcoat and the peacoat every year and turns it into something worth killing & dying for.
Not one season has passed where I wasn't absolutely head over heels in love.
But this right here............THIS RIGHT HERE, NIQQA!!
This is everything I've ever dreamed of. This is my soul in cloth form.
We've alll see trenchcoats done a million times over, BUT NEVER THIS GOOD!!! 
I mean.... the first trench above is like the perfect yellow-y/gold, like the dried mustard that gets stuck inside the cap!!!(thats kinda gross, but its so right in this context!!!)The sleeves on the trench in the middle(looks like leather or something) adds a little pop and a shot of A+ to an already amazingly tailored specimen of trench-ery(yeah, I made that word up. Its what I tend to do when I like something so much and there are no other existing words to desribe how I feel:)).
And the double-breasted SUPER-luxe suede one with the contrasting leather straps and epaulets on the far right....yeah that one..... I WOULD END INNOCENT LIVES FOR IT!!! YESSS!! END INNOCENT LIVES!!!(loljk but there would be a serious moment of contemplation)
(def one of my favorite shoes of the season.)
Inspired by bikers while also retaining the military inspo from last season, Bailey showed naval officer coats and epaulet-ed army shirts  alongside studded biker jackets and leather pants, turning the Burberry boys into a group of leather-clad Cyber-Biker Rockstar Soldiers. I only have 1 question:
Where do I enlist? 
The details were so good. #itsthelittlestuffman 
Burberry Prorsum is a very fitting name for the house while under the creative direction of Bailey. "Prorsum" translates to "forward", and thats exactly where Bailey is taking Burberry.

I felt extremely bi-polar watching Raf.
There was no middle.
No like.
No maybe.
There was only LOVE & HATE.
and a very thin line between the two.
The show had this "90's European Club Kid" vibe to it, with the street-sweeper pants and the sleeveless vests. Its cold and detached while also tradtional.
Masculine and flamboyantly elegant at the same time.
The color pallet was restricted to black, white and a few pastels.
Raf says that the color pallet is paying homage Margiela,
" Exactly 20 years ago I saw my first fashion show, and it was the third show of Martin Margiela, the all white one. It’s in homage to Martin......."
and the shapes and aesthetic, to his archives
 " .......but also revisiting our own past. I wanted it to be about liberation in a way as well."
(Doesn't the last look above on the right remind you of something the Backstreet Boys/N*Sync would've worn in there heydays. They may not be the best style reference point but I really like this look. I think I might get married in it.)
Raf took a break from the JNCO look and relapsed into the skinny silhouette/etreme tailoring we've come to expect from him.The shiny plastic-y sweater on the end gets unlimited love from me.I think about it during the day and I dream about it at night. (Yes, I do realize that it looks like something a weird fetish pornstar would wear, but so what?!! #maybethatsthelookimgoingfor)

Does Ricardo Tisci ever do anything wrong? 
(that was a rhetorical question. The obvious answer is NO!! If you found yourself second guessing Ricky, YOU CAN LEAVE NOW!!!loljk but srsly tho hes NEVER done anything wrong. never/ever.)
The collection played out like a battle. A battle between good and evil/purity and carnality and the realization that it takes a good amount of one to get the other. Animal prints and solid colors seemingly played on opposite sides of the fence but when you look closer you can see that print is actually embossed onto the fabric and cut out of lace, representing "the animal within".
(With this seasons theme being "Victorian Circus", I'm guessing Lea T. is the "Bearded Lady" loljk <3 u Lea)
The hints of leopard-print (a sleeve here, a pair of shoes there) grew into FULL FLEDGED LEOPARD MANIA!!
Three piece suits, track jackets and shorts/leggings combos all donned the print.
(I love the "ManRomper" above on the far right)
Ricardo Tisci has claimed his crown as "The King Of Gothic Sensuality".

The shoes were really good. IDK how I feel about the Leopard print ones.
 The black ones kinda look like minimalist brogues, I loved the 3-Dness of the two on the bottom, they look like textured Rorschach paintings.
This song was playing as the models slink up and down the runway, evoking a sense of sophomoric opulence.  This season Ricardo's gang is a group of  20-something year old super-sexual gothic billionaires. 

THISSSSSSS!! this is so good and so chill. This is exactly what I want to be wearing this coming Spring. I'm a sucker for the  "lazy loner stoner"-vibez (ooh that rhymed!!). 

The colors/vibez/everything at Jil were just so good!!
 This season we witnessed Raf use color like never before. I'm talking head-to-toe seizure-inducing color. In a decidedly "Spring-y" and uncomplicated collection  Raf used retina searing colors to get his message across. 
Raf commented on the show, saying,
“This isn’t a silhouette-driven collection at all, as a matter of fact. I don’t want to compete with nature; I also don’t want to blend in. What I want is to create a tension, a certain friction or electricity, …”. 
The color blocking and mix/matching was so good!!It reminds me of this game that bloggers would play when they would see how many colors they could use in one look while using only solid colors :)goodtimezz(even tho I never played that game lolsadface).
 I'm in love with the 3rd look in the above collage, the colors are just so right.
The presentation was made into a spectacle by Mother Nature herself. The dark, stormy sky ,threatening everyone with rain and hail, made for an interesting background. The clothes, the music and the atmosphere made the vibe a little dangerous. It felt like a setting from one of the "Matrix" films. Neo is gonna run from behind one of these bushes at any moment with a gang of Agent Smiths close behind.
I was feeling the floral prints in this collection. It keeps up the colorful pop-yness of the collection but its also kinda pessimistic, so it keeps the collection from looking like a Xanax-hyped unicorn designed it.  The collection was perfect, even the Gods agreed, confirmed as the last look came down the runway and the sky opened and rain poured.
Ok...... so I looked at this collection when it debuted in June and I LOVED IT!!!!!
Every look was greeted with ultra-enthusiastic "OOOHHHH" ,"AAAAAAAAHH", "HNNNNNG" or "OMFGOMFGOMFG!!!!!"
But now as I look back on it the first words that come to mind are: WTF?
I don't wanna say the pieces are bad and blaming the styling would be to easy, but these looks are awkward and unfortunate looking. Alber said the collection was "An antidote to laziness,"
It was all about action, mobility and urgency, which is why I'm guessing everything had a demented, frayed and wrinkled look. The classic Lanvin tailoring was displaced (definitely not replaced) by bodycon knitwear.
The Lanvin Boys don't have time to focus on there looks, its all about an athletic comfortability. I get it and everything but this is just undesirable and a little annoying.
But everything at Lanvin wasn't bad.
Actually some of the looks were mindbogglingly amazing, things that I would expect from Lanvin under the reign of Alber and Lucas.
 As the show went on Alber and Lucas wanted to showcase the fact that The Lanvin Boys are now used to there daily routine.
They no longer have to sacrifice style for comfort.
They're firm enough within there own edgy agenda to add a bit of luxury to there everyday wardrobe.
These two looks were so ACE!! and they had this weird chemistry/tension that was just so good.(Black Swan/White Swan?? anybody.........Bueller???)  

Extreme emphasis was put on the textures and fabrics at Lanvin. Lucas wanted you to want to touch them. Intimacy was what they were going for, and intimacy is what they got.
I loved the jewelery!! It was something only seen before in Lanvin's womenswear collections. Glad to see it translated over to the menswear so well.

This was a very dynamic and passionate outing for Lanvin.(notice how I changed the font of the word "dynamic" to Georgia to make it all depth-y and meaningful.....hellzyeah I'm a literary gangsta.)(No? ok sry.) I hope that Alber and Lucas only get better and continue to create collections that force me to think about them over and over again.

~Seacrest, out~


  1. great reviews! i fell the same way about the raf simons collection! it was a tad off the excessively loose pants (however, who the hell am i to judge? i only wear skinnies)

    i really like what you wrote about givenchy! the leopard evolution was so subtle yet beautiful!

    the textures in lanvin were heavenly!

    - your niqqa, out- (just 'cause i can)

  2. awesome review you made
    i love burberry menswear!

  3. You know my future wife Emma is the face of Burberry (justsayin)

    and lol! "This is everything I've ever dreamed of. This is my soul in cloth form."

  4. Ok, it's hard for me to describe which picture I'm speaking of, since I'm not very good with description of the fashion kind, but in the photoset above the "90's Euro Club Kid" bit the first shot looks like it was straight out of the "I Want It That Way" video...

  5. @Chuck- thx:)

    @Jessica- yes Burberry is the BOMB!!!:)

    @Kel- yeah lol it does!! i JUST WENT AND WATCHED THAT VIDEO!lol XD